Eat/Drink

For maximum crunch (and convenience), pull out your sheet pan

Spicy roasted broccoli pasta, in New York, January 16, 2017. Cooking an entire meal on one rimmed baking pan — the so-called sheet pan supper — has become its own category of cooking, the oven analogue of the one-pot meal. ― Picture by Andrew Scrivani/The New York TimesSpicy roasted broccoli pasta, in New York, January 16, 2017. Cooking an entire meal on one rimmed baking pan — the so-called sheet pan supper — has become its own category of cooking, the oven analogue of the one-pot meal. ― Picture by Andrew Scrivani/The New York TimesNEW YORK, Feb 22 ― Cooking an entire meal on one rimmed baking pan — the so-called sheet pan supper — has become its own category of cooking, the oven analogue of the one-pot meal.

I was an early adopter of the sheet pan supper. You can’t beat the ease, especially when what you end up with is not only simpler than most other dinners, but also better — at least if you like your food to have some crunch.

That’s the benefit of a sheet pan. Spreading out all your ingredients in one layer and exposing them to the oven’s high heat allows them to truly crisp and brown, more so than with any other cooking method short of frying. And if whatever you’re making isn’t quite brown enough, a quick stint under the broiler will take you there.

In this recipe, I give spicy broccoli pasta the sheet pan treatment. It’s a particularly convenient dish to make. You roast some broccoli on a sheet pan, then toss everything else on top before returning it to the broiler.

You do have to boil the pasta in a pot before adding it to the sheet pan, so this recipe doesn’t technically qualify as a one-pan meal. But it comes pretty close, and that extra pot is well worth the washing for such a satisfying meatless main course.

The combination of ingredients — broccoli, pasta, fresh ricotta and Parmesan — could also be piled into a casserole dish and baked. You’ll end up with something more discretely golden on top, and soft in the middle.

But here I was going for maximum browning. I wanted the broccoli florets to be audibly crisp. I wanted the pasta to nearly burn at its edges. I even wanted the usually silky ricotta cheese to burnish and caramelise. And just for good measure, I added a thin coating of Parmesan-spiked breadcrumbs to fill in the nooks and crannies.

Spicy roasted broccoli pasta, in New York, January 16, 2017. ― Picture by Andrew Scrivani/The New York TimesSpicy roasted broccoli pasta, in New York, January 16, 2017. ― Picture by Andrew Scrivani/The New York TimesAll of those assertive textures call for bold flavours. So I added whole cumin seed and chilli flakes to the broccoli, and then some grated lemon zest to the breadcrumb topping. A squeeze of lemon juice at the end adds just enough brightness to bring everything together.

After making this dish once, you can use it as a template for future sheet pan suppers with pasta, swapping in vegetables like brussels sprouts, mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, asparagus, zucchini, eggplant and cauliflower for the broccoli, and other soft cheeses — perhaps goat cheese or Camembert — for the ricotta.

Just keep the high heat and the breadcrumbs. You want to get that crunch.

Spicy roasted broccoli pasta

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

2 1/2 pounds broccoli, cut into bite-size florets

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

1 teaspoon cumin seeds (optional)

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, more as needed

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste

12 ounces chiocciole or other tube-shaped pasta

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/3 cup panko breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

12 ounces best-quality whole milk ricotta

Fresh lemon juice, for serving (optional)

Preparation:

1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss together broccoli, oil, cumin (if using), 3/4 teaspoon salt and the red pepper flakes. Roast until tender and browned at the edges, 18 to 25 minutes, tossing halfway through. Remove from oven and set oven to broil.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Cook pasta according to package directions; drain.

3. In a small bowl, stir together Parmesan, panko, lemon zest, a pinch of salt and the black pepper.

4. Toss cooked pasta with broccoli on baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then dollop with ricotta. Sprinkle with Parmesan mix, drizzle generously with oil, and broil until topping is crisped and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon juice to taste, and serve. — The New York Times

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